21-Nights Mayan Adventure: Mexico, Belize & Guatemala - Classic

Caye Caulker

San Cristobal de las Casas

Merida (Progreso)

Located on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula in the fascinating Mundo Maya Region, Merida provides a looking glass that reveals both colonial influence and the mystique of an ancient civilization. In fact, the city is built on the exact site of an indigenous ceremonial center.

Easily one of the best way to see Merida is by climbing into a calesa - a high-wheeled, horse-drawn carriage. The city is also easily explored by foot. As you amble past whitewashed houses, through lively marketplaces and around the flower-filled Plaza Mayor, you'll begin to feel as if you've stepped back in time. You can also visit one of Mexico's oldest cathedrals, built from the stones of a Mayan temple, explore Paseo Montejo, a Parisian-style boulevard lined with Victorian mansions, and visit the treasure-filled museums.

Wind down with the friendly locals in the welcoming bars and restaurants of the old colonial district. If you want to travel even further back in time, you'll find Merida is surrounded by one of the richest collections of Mayan ruins in Mexico. Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Dzibilchaltun, and more are just a short trip away.

San Ignacio

The medium-sized settlement of San Ignacio, on the banks of the Macal River in Belize's hilly western region, is another culturally diverse Belizean town—with quick and easy access to superb natural and historical sites. Its wooden and concrete buildings are picturesque, set against the green of the hillside 70 mi/110 km west of Belize City.

Surprisingly, the area has few mosquitoes or other biting bugs, a pleasant change from much of the rest of Belize. San Ignacio (called "Cayo" by many locals, a name which also refers to the entire western region) has mostly budget lodging, but nearby is "cottage country," where some of Belize's best jungle lodges offer horseback riding, romantic settings, river rafting and nature hikes in the bush.

The town's market is an excellent place to buy authentic Belizean crafts and sample local cuisine from food stalls. Green Iguana Conservation project provides rehabilitation for injured iguanas while allowing visitors to interact with them.

From San Ignacio, excursions can be arranged to a number of destinations in the area: Actun Tunichil Muknal and Barton Creek caves, the Rain Forest Medicine Trail, Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, the Belize Botanic Gardens at duPlooy's Lodge, three butterfly farms (Green Hills, Tropical Wings and the Blue Morpho Breeding Center at Chaa Creek) and the archaeological ruins at Cahal Pech, Xunantunich, El Pilar and Caracol.

Just 10 mi/16 km from the border with Guatemala, San Ignacio can also serve as a base for a day trip to the ancient Maya city of Tikal in Guatemala. To book a trip, go to one of the many tour businesses on Burns Avenue or check with your hotel or lodge.

San Ignacio is connected to its sister town, Santa Elena, by the only suspension bridge in the country, Hawkesworth Bridge. Road connections to San Ignacio from other points in Belize are good, although the Western Highway from Belize City has one of the highest traffic accident rates in the country, especially after rains when some sections are as slick.

Flores

Antigua, Guatemala

Founded in 1543, Santiago de Guatemala (now known as La Antigua Guatemala, or simply Antigua) was the capital of Spain's Central American confederacy and the fourth most important city in the Americas (after Mexico City, Lima and Zacatecas) in the 1500s.

Antigua was devastated by an earthquake in 1773, which, combined with damage from earlier earthquakes, persuaded the government to relocate the capital to the site of present-day Guatemala City. That seeming misfortune turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Isolation and longtime neglect served Antigua well. More than two centuries of underdevelopment left the town with a treasure trove of dilapidated but historical structures, many of which have been rehabilitated into chic restaurants, shops and hotels.

Antigua can be seen on a day's excursion from Guatemala City, which is 28 mi/45 km to the east, but it deserves more time. Some visitors prefer to use this colonial gem as their base for touring the country (instead of the capital). It has a large English-speaking community, a wide range of accommodations, upscale and medium-priced restaurants, espresso bars, delicious baked goods, literally dozens of language schools, plenty of galleries, and for nightlife, jazz clubs and discos.

Antigua is also one of the best places to go in Guatemala if you want to learn to speak Spanish. About 75 schools in town offer intensive classes. But be sure to check ahead of time to know exactly what you'll get, as not all of these schools are on the up-and-up. Some courses include lodging with Guatemalan families.

Visitors also can study various arts and crafts (backstrap weaving, drawing, painting, ceramics, photography and so forth) at the Art Workshops in La Antigua Guatemala. It's not a fully Guatemalan experience, however, as a group of U.S. for-profit artists operates those workshops, not the Guatemalans themselves.

Panajachel

There are plenty of hotels and restaurants in Panajachel, Guatemala, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, but this village is a tad run down, slightly overpriced and very touristy. (We think some of the pristine beauty of the lake was destroyed when the Hotel Barcelo del Lago built a wooden platform along the beach. It can turn into a noisy playground at times.)

Located 68 mi/109 km west of Guatemala City, Panajachel used to have a reputation as a haven for New Age seekers and pot-smoking global drifters; although that's still true to some extent, the demographic is a bit more varied now, as many wealthy U.S. citizens and Guatemalans have bought homes there. However, the market is a great place to pick up some handicrafts, especially if you can't make it to Chichicastenango for market day.

An especially good time to visit the town is the first week of October, when Panajachel honors its patron saint, St. Francis, with special festivities.

Santiago Atitlan is a great day trip, especially for the boat trip across the lake. The town is the home of the Tuztuil, who maintain their Maya religious practices and are renowned artisans. Just before Easter, they celebrate a god called Maximon, whose effigy is paraded through the streets, doused in rum and given a lit cigar and a fedora for his head. Maximon is said to represent the life force, and he's definitely the life of the party.

Jaibalito also makes a good day trip from Panajachel (it's a 20-minute boat ride). Kick back and spend a night at the beautiful La Casa del Mundo hotel. The restaurant, which is also open to nonguests (as are most hotel restaurants in the country), serves delicious food. The hotel grounds offer an excellent, safe opportunity for lake swimming.

Palenque

On the outskirts of Palenque, located near the Mexico-Guatemala border approximately 300 mi/485 km southwest of Merida, lie some of the most impressive Mayan ruins in the country. Climb the tall Temple of the Inscriptions and then descend to the site of the impressive, restored crypt of the Mayan king Pakal. The crypt itself is closed off to visitors, but there's a replica at the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Investigate other ruins to look at carvings and bas-reliefs.

We consider Palenque well worth a visit, but it is extremely hot and humid in the summer. To avoid the worst of it, get an early-morning start.

If you leave the park following the Otulum River down the hill, you will discover several excavated temples and get to many pretty waterfalls cascading into natural bathing pools, a great place to cool off after wandering around the ruins. Some pleasant hotels are found in the village, if you wish to overnight in the area.

If you have time, travel 60 mi/100 km south to the Agua Azul waterfalls. These turquoise cascades are some of Mexico's natural wonders (just try to ignore the tacky food huts dotting the lower end of the falls). You can swim there, but do so with care—several people have drowned.

Playa del Carmen